Monday, August 30, 2010

Stark Contrast

Early one night, before the waning full moon made its grand appearance, the star-filled sky was more brilliant and clear than I can ever recall. It felt like I was standing on the very edge of the atmosphere, where only a thin sheet or a cold breath of air separated me from falling in among the stars. The milky way looked like a murky, grey cloud mixed into the infinite stars, like a black granite table-top with refined sugar spilled on top. And for a short while, the relentless wind died down to a chilly breeze, and carried the sound of rustling leaves and chirping insects through the otherwise perfect silence. There was not a single car engine to be heard, or a single, dull street light to be seen, just serenity and peace. As I stood there admiring the brilliant scene, In that moment there was nowhere else on earth I would rather have been; and though a loved one would have made good company, I stood there alone in complete contentment.

When I wake the next morning, the sun sheds light on the real setting which I live. Though there are many trees, the area looks desolate and dry- it is like a wasteland where the hot sun condemns animals to death, and the ferocious winds blow their remains to sand (exaggeration). Animal waste covers the dirt road, precious trees are chopped down and cut into pieces to be sold, and black spots can be seen on the ground in various places where people burn their trash or where they burn wood to make charcoal.

This place that I live overflows with life and with potential. Insects of all kinds are loudly accompanying my walk around the village, huge camels are snacking on the African milk tree overgrowth that lines the main road while matatu and motorbike drivers honk their horns impatiently to clear the way, and beautiful Kenyan children are running barefoot in the fields with their handmade toys screaming at me as I walk by. The soil in the fields is rich and fertile, making for the sweetest bananas I have ever tasted. The corn kernels grow large and the tomatoes are firm and supple.

But at the very same time, poverty ravages the people here. Families sell their small amount of food so they can purchase water. Everyone grows corn in their farms, and "Ugali" or corn porridge is the meal every single day because families cannot afford to diversify their diet. Fruit is a luxury many cannot afford. Every day, women walk 15-20 kilometers to fetch water, carrying a 20 liter jerry can on their heads for half of that walk. Children have skin diseases because they can only afford to bathe once per week.

The women are beautiful and hardworking and the nuclear family is tied by strong religious and cultural norms. Extended families generally live on close homesteads, caring for each other and remaining close throughout their lives.

Yet problems like prostitution abound in the neighboring village (and bigger cities) while HIV and other STDs are rampant. Condoms are not mainstream and testing for or talking about HIV/AIDS is taboo. It is almost socially acceptable for a man to cheat on his wife, and even spread HIV or other problems throughout the family.

The juxtaposition of the priceless beauty in the nighttime skies that shine for all the suffering people is surreal. It reminds me that there is so much here that needs to be done, but at the same time so much that I don't ever want to change.

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